As the warmer days approach the tastes of many wine drinkers move from the heavier red wines, so great with a big winter meal, to lighter and fresher reds and the crisp whites so great in summer.

In our traditional wine world, the concept has been that the red wines are the best and whites are of lesser quality, and do not measure up to the red wines for quality, structure and longevity, and are mostly for ladies or summer drinking.

In actual fact, nothing could be further from the truth and a startling (to the entrenched red lovers) change is slowly starting to evolve. Whites are starting to challenge the entrenched tastes, and according to LCBO statistics from Vintages have shown a startling jump in sales.

In truth, the professionals and the wine press have always recognized many great white wines, but they have not been promoted or commented on nearly as much as they deserve, to the disservice of the consumer.

For some time the popular whites were the wooded Chardonnays, German oversweet varieties, the mass-produced wines of France, the U.S. and Chile, along with Lindemanns from Australia. While these were pleasant sippers, they showed little structure, a short bouquet in the mouth, and not a lot of fruit. Amongst these were some good whites, but because of a bit higher pricing they did not catch the market interest, and there were great ones out there, but they were hard to find.

Then came the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement, and some other varietals started to grow, and while these were slow to catch on, the Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc became popular, and the winemakers began to realize the Chardonnay, without the forest added, was a wonderful grape, and realization of the lovely fruit extracts found in white grapes started to evolve more. Today, there are whites out there that can challenge any of the big reds for structure, long taste, and beautifully elegant fruit, and are as mouth filling and complimentary to great food dishes.

Here is what to look for:

For the greater levels look for Vognier from France, Chile, Australia, and recently California. Big white fruits with body and structure coating the tongue and inside of the mouth, these also may be blended with others varieties to enhance specific flavours. Marsanne from the Northern Rhone and the multi blends of the White Chateauneuf du Papes can be huge wines, and in my opinion some of the greatest are the Pinot Gris from Alsace and Gewurztraminer from Germany and Alsace. Huge floral and fruit flavours that last forever in your mouth

It is interesting to note the oldest drinkable wine in the world is a German Riesling from Rudesheim, kept in the cellars of the Town Hall, reputed to be from the 1640's. crown