In my last column I brought forth the growing popularity of white wines and the joy they bring on a warm summer's day, and now I will bring forth the reds we should be looking at for great enjoyment.

Red wines come in many shades, light and fruity to big, powerful and complex, and the time and place to choose which you will partake of is critical to the enjoyment.

Red wines also carry an erroneous cachet that they cause headaches in many people, and while there is no denying that these headaches are real, they are not caused by the wine but by the chemicals added by branded producers who produce wines of dreadful equality of flavour regardless of the grape or growing conditions, and which sadly comprise a major portion of the LCBO general list.

To ensure good, uncontaminated wines, look in Vintages or ask the LCBO staff to recommend a good small producer - they can and will and are very well trained and helpful.

Light reds are ideal for summer, and go well with barbecue foods, pork, chicken, and heavier fish or shellfish.

In this category look for Gamay, particularly Beaujolais, Syrah (shiraz) from anywhere but Australia, Grenache red, and Pinot Noir.

In the medium category again Shiraz and blends of Grenache and Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignon, Sangiovese, Tinto Uno or Tempranillo, and many of the newer obscure but developing grape varieties. These should give big upfront fruit of Cherries, raspberry, blackberry and current and the finish should be long and clean with no fuzzy tarter on the upper palate, and no bitterness.

In some cases, Merlot will also fall into this category - the foods that match are any of the ones above but also lamb, and some beef dishes

The big reds in the main come from the Cabernet family, which includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Tannat - these are all high in tannins and when young tend to have the fuzz on the palate and are bitter - but after three or more years aging are ideal.

Even better, in my opinion, are the Rhone red from the North and Chateauneuf du Pape and the other Rhone village, the big Australian reds and now some of the super wines from Chile that are outstanding, such as the Syrah and Malbec, including those from Argentina. South Africa is now starting to come onboard with biggies but many have an unique flavour not found elsewhere and take getting used to.

California is very good but the quality in my mind does not justify the cost.

I do not recommend Pinot Noir here unless you are really knowledgeable on Burgundy, as the growers and vintages are very uneven and not for the amateur.

With the last category choose beef, almost any game animal or Bird and with strong cheese - for a real treat try a big fruity red with Chocolate, but not the Cabernet family

Enjoy a warm and sunny summer! Cheers!

We will do private tastings and courses in wine - questions welcomed at 519-941-8390.

Restaurant review

Bistro 77, at 77 Victoria Street, Alliston, (call 705 435-7177 for reservations).

This restaurant is a total sleeper. If it were in New York or Paris the wait list for reservations could be months or longer - a stunning experience.

Located in a Victorian home on the main street, it has a subdued decor, with outstanding photographic studies from around the world. The rooms are small but table spacings are adequate and not crowded, but space is limited, so reservations are wise. Settings are on white linen, with elegant crystal and good china.

Service was prompt and efficient and refreshingly knowledgeable.

The wine list is not large but well balanced and ideally suited to fine dining, with both entry levels and top estates represented, and reasonably priced.

Appetizers were varied, and the sushi grade tuna and roasted fig dishes as well as the cauliflower soup were absolutely outstanding.

The main courses were a revelation, and all equally well presented and prepared. Highly recommended

were the venison, salmon & halibut duo, pork and organic chicken, and the desserts were matchingly decadent and delicious.

It was a great joy to find such a jewel hidden in Alliston and I was tempted to give bonus points for that reason.

Score 95/100. Food 28/30 (Not 30 because somewhere, somehow, something may be better - maybe!) Wines 28/30 (only losing points because of size of selection). Service 20/20. Ambience/dcor 9/10. Overall, 10/10.

Don't miss this one!