One of the most frequently asked questions I get is a commentary on the wines of Canada and, more particularly, Ontario, and below I will try to offer my views on this subject.

It is the popular thing to do to be loyal and support our local economy or business but it is also important to offer fair and honest evaluation to the consumer and that is what I will try to do here.

Vines have been grown in Canada for centuries and in fact when the Norse seafarers arrived in Newfoundland in the 1100's they named the new land "Vineland," which obviously must have had its derivation in the local Lambrusca grape vines. While these are related to the true wine-growing grape vines, "Vinifera," they in fact make a far less palatable wine. There are many species of grape vines but for the winemaker the three majors are Lambrusca,

Vinifera and Hybrid which, as its name denotes, is a cross between the Vinifera and Lambrusca and was developed to offer winter hardiness to the Vinifera superior flavour. For many years the lambrusca was the grape found and used in Canada, and produced alcoholic but rough and simple wines. It was felt by the Department of Agriculture and growers that the climate in Canada was too severe for the true grape vine so the use of the Hybrids and Lambrusca was encouraged and the true vines were not recommended. While the Hybrids do produce some very palatable wines, they do not achieve the classic structure and complexity of the true Vinifera. Some of these now used here are Vidal, Marchal Foch, Seyvel, Duchess, and of these the first two are well known and in a class alone.

About 30 years ago, several growers in Ontario, Karl Kaiser, Don Ziraldo and Paul Bosc, decided to ignore the advice and practice of the time and tried using true Vinifera grapes. Low and behold they succeeded, and produced good wines and the vines survived. Over the succeeding years the Department of Agriculture resisted this trend and encouraged the continuation of the old-style

grapes with financial assistance but finally realized the true vine would and did work and came on board. However they still resist the trend to organic grapes due to pressure from the chemical companies, and organic growers are fighting an uphill battle; to my knowledge the only organic grower in Ontario is Frog Pond in Niagara.

For the last 20 years the wine area in Ontario was Niagara and the north shore of Lake Erie but today the area of Prince Edward County near Kingston is threatening to dethrone the region as the leader and is producing outstanding wine - particularly Pinot Noir, and true wineries (not fruit wines) are springing up in other areas - including Bolton, (Chesslawn), and I have heard of one in Muskoka but I am not sure which grapes are grown.

Ontario now produces almost all Vinifera varietals - Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Blanc in white and Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and I have heard of some Syrah.

In my opinion, we have tried to be all things and use varieties that are not truly suited to the area's microclimate, and this may evolve in time, as we are very much infants in the wine timescale and do not yet fully understand our best regions and soils.

However, we do produce world-class Riesling and Gewurztraminer in whites and it appears the Cabernet franc and Pinot Noir (in Prince Edward County) are achieving great reviews, but most of the others are at best slightly above average only.

Look for the VQA designation, which now is broken down by region for true Ontario-grown grapes. Those without this designation can contain up to 90% imported grapes and only 10% Ontario grapes and are of much poorer quality (thanks to the Dept. of Agriculture and the big mass-market producers here), and this has been hugely harmful to the smaller true artesianal growers who cannot or will not dilute their products - some names to

watch are Rief, Konzelman, De Sousa, Vineland Estates, Cave Springs. Lailey, Malavoire, Frog Pond, and many more can be found on the VQA website. Beware of the big producers who use super premium award-winning wines (usually over $30 a bottle) to promote their non-VQA products.

This is a topic that could take many more pages but I hope the above helps a bit. Look also for good wines from British Columbia (outstanding), Nova Scotia (very good) and fruit wines from many regions - well worth a try.

For questions, assistance or advice on wines, events or tastings please feel free to call 519 941 8390.

Look for the upcoming "Feast of the Fields" organic event Sept. 17 at Albion Hills Conservation area - world-class food, wines, and restaurateurs, in an outdoors settingTickets, 905 859 0060.

Restaurant review

This time we tried one of the stars of Orangeville, and were not disappointed

One99 Broadway is a venue that could do well in Paris, London, New York or Toronto, and have both a huge wait list for reservations and big prices. Fortunately for us, neither is yet the rule, even though the owners might wish it.

The décor is attractive and restrained, with good table spacing, and table settings are upbeat and elegant - 9/10.

There are two wine lists, the regular and a afficionado upscale one and both have a broad and quality level that is welcome - 27/30.

Service was attentive and efficient with very few minor waits -17/20.

The food was outstanding, well prepared and great choices that should satisfy even the most critical gourmet.

Recommended are the goat's cheese, tuna and salad, but other appetizers were also elegant. For main courses we had great salmon, venison and seafood and only wished we could have tried the others - 27/30.

Again, desserts were outstanding. This one is highly recommended and a credit to the owners, chef and staff and a gem for the residents and visitors in Orangeville.

Overall impression - 9/10. Score, 89 points. Reservations recommended - 519 940-3108.