"The country comes to the city!" is the annual boast of the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, held at the Direct Energy Centre at the CNE in Toronto. The "Royal" is now in its 89th year, an institution, a tradition.

Although there certainly are pitch forks and green boots, handled and worn by the folk who have brought their cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, llamas, alpacas - and horses - the "country" that attends the Royal is showing its best face.

All those animals and more - rabbits, chickens, guinea pigs - you name it! - are carefully groomed and polished.

Everything is kept immaculately with the watchful eyes of those owners constantly brushing, wiping and scooping.

Ostensibly, the Royal is held in Toronto to help urbanites understand the sources of their grocery stores' stock — to meet the cow that produces the milk; the see the skill of the man who shears the sheep; to understand that dogs still guard and herd groups of large animals: these are all valuable lessons for the cynical city dweller, young or old.

In reality, though, there are other purposes of the Royal, one of which is very much the same as with any agricultural fair. Over the course of two of the days during the Royal, for example, there are cattle auctions in one of the rings to the west of the building.

The auctions involve many thousands of dollars and are very much "country" business, whether in the middle of the city or no.

Yes, the Royal is many things to many people, holding such a wide appeal that it attracts literally hundreds of thousands of people over its 10-day span. The organisers need the entire year to prepare, so varied and interesting an event is the Royal.

Of course, it is not simply famers who come to the Royal. A vast throng of folk contribute their skills, knowledge and wares for the information and consumption of the visiting public. Cheese makers, eco-farmers, representatives of new and traditional industries, some of which have more in common than might be expected, are there.

Naturally, the big tack shops come with their saddles, bridles, etc. They bring blankets, riding clothes, all sorts of horserelated items from the very highest end of the market to the most economical.

Merchants with toys, books, clothes, jewellery, shawls, well, just everything fill the aisles of the Royal's marketplace with beautiful and interesting things.

People come, as well, from all over the world to offer specimens of national skill for sale. For instance, one couple comes to Toronto specifically to attend the Royal from Scandinavia. They have luxurious long underwear to sell. Each piece is signed by the craftsperson who made it. Others come from across North America, and a few from further afield — Asia and Africa. Look out for the novelties and the unexpected.

To a great many people, the Royal is all about the horses. For sure, the stalls of the Horse Palace are filled and the Coliseum is busy from midday until late in the evening with equine-based events.

Local youngsters attending their first big show with their ponies ride in the same ring (though not at the same time, mind) as the biggest names in international show jumping; horse people of every discipline come to ride, jump and drive their steeds. This crowd comes from all over as well: Canada's far reaches, the USA and Europe, all bringing their best animals to compete against the best of others.

Even for the uninitiated, there are thrilling moments during the horse shows - thrilling, enchanting, exhilarating. All tastes are catered to from the sedate elegance of the dressage riders to the wild and woolly antics of the rodeo riders; nothing is omitted, no one is disappointed.

There is no doubting that the Royal is very special. You know it as soon as you walk through the doors. There is a tingle in the air, a feeling of excitement — the vast and varied marketplace; the presence of large animals; the anticipation of competition. You know you will meet interesting people. Every turn will bring you to new ideas and mini adventures.

This year, there has been huge effort to make this an exceptionally good time for everyone, participants and visitors alike. It is the perfect outing for families, for any pair or group — indeed, come on your own.

The Royal opened last Friday, Nov. 6, and goes until next Sunday, November 15.

We will be there — hope to see you, too.